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Laundry Manual 



BY 



L. RAY BALDERSTON 

M 

DIRECTOR OF THE DEPARTMENT OF DOMESTIC SCIENCE 

IN BOARDMAN MANUAL TRAINING HIGH 

SCHOOL, NEW HAVEN, CONN. 



M. C. LIMERICK 



INSTRUCTOR OF DOMESTIC SCIENCE IN DREXEL 
INSTITUTE, PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



Philadelphia 

AVIL PRINTING COMPANY 

Market and Fortieth Sts. 

1900 



r XWO COPIES REOEiVfc-^ 

Library of £«Eg*9ft% 

UftlSQ @f tfcg 

APR 1 3 1800 

LiegUt*? of Copf ?lgfef& 



-1 









Copyright, 1900, by 
L. Ray Bai^dkrston and M. C. Limerick. 



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■■:-■:.. 



SECOND COPV, 






PREEACE. 



IN presenting this little book to the public, the aim has been to 
furnish a book the need of which has long been felt by the 
authors. The course, as treated in this manual, having been 
used with success in their respective schools for several years, has 
now been placed in book form, in the hope that it will be an aid 
to instructors and at the same time be a help to the housewife. 

The outline of lessons has been added as a suggestion to in- 
structors for presenting the course in twelve lessons of two and a 
half hours each, to classes of eight students. This outline, together 
with the arrangement of chapters, has been based upon the assort- 
ment of clothes in the introductory chapter. 

The illustrations have been designed to show clearly the 
methods of folding garments. 

The chapter on stains has been arranged in tabulated form to 
facilitate reference. With a knowledge of chemistry, students will 
be able to appreciate the reactions employed in the removal of 
stains. 

The authors acknowledge with pleasure their indebtedness to 
Miss Eva J. Phelps, Instructor of English in Boardman Manual 
Training High School, for corrections in the manuscript ; and to 
Miss L. H. Dayton, Instructor of Wood Carving in Boardman 
Manual Training High School, for the illustrations which have 
been drawn especially for this book. 

L. R. B. 
M. C. h. 

January, 1900. 



(3) 



CHAPTER 



CHAPTER II.— 

CHAPTER III 

CHAPTER IV. 
CHAPTER V. 

CHAPTER VI. 

CHAPTER VII.— 

CHAPTER VIII 



CHAPTER IX, 
CHAPTER X 



CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Introductory 7 

Equipment for Home Laundry .... 7 

Outline of Laundry Work 8 

General Rules 9 

Stains l6 

Removal l 7 

Recipes 22 

Table Linen 24 

Bed Linen 27 

Body Linen 33 

Flannels 40 

Shirts 42 

Collars and Cuffs 43 

Shirt Waists 44 

Colored Clothes 4 8 

Stockings 48 

— Embroideries 5° 

Laces 5 1 

Clear Starching 5 1 

— Cleansing 53 

—Outline of Course for Instructors 55 

(5) 



LAUNDRY MANUAL. 



CHAPTER I. 

Introductory. 

Equipment for a Home Laundry. 

Set tubs, three or four. 

Clothes wringer. 

Clothes stick. 

Clothes boiler (tin or copper) . 

Wash board. 

Clothes pins. 

Clothes basket or pail. 

Water pail. 

Scrubbing brushes. 

Spoon for starch. 

Strainer for starch. 

Heavy cloth for tubs and boiler. 

Clothes horse. 

Duster for lines. 

Bosom board. 

Skirt board. 

Sleeve board. 

Small pointed irons. 

Heavy irons. 

(7) 



8 Laundry Manual. 

Iron holders. 
Flannel. 
Iron rest. 
Polishing iron. 
Heavy paper. 
Small pieces of muslin. 

Ironing table, covered with canton flannel, or coarse 
blanket and fine cotton cloth. 

Rkagknts. 
Salt. 
Vinegar. 
Borax. 
Naphtha. 

Hydrochloric acid. 
Alum. 
Wax. 
Blueing. 
Starch. 
Ammonia. 
Oxalic acid. 
French chalk. 
Javelle water. 
Bran in cheese cloth bags, 9x9 inches. 

Outline of Laundry Work. 

I. Preparation of the Wash: 
Sorting, 

Removing stains, 
Water used, 
Soap, 
Blue. 



Equipment for a Home Laundry, 9 

Other agents: 

Soda, 

Borax, 

Washing powders, 

Turpentine, 

Kerosene, 

Javelle water. 
II. Method of Washing: 
Soaking, 
Washing, 
Rinsing, 
Boiling, 
Rinsing, 
Starching, 
Hanging, 
Drying, 
Sprinkling, 
Stretching, 
Folding. 

III. Ironing. 

IV. Folding. 

General Rules. 

Washing is the mechanical cleansing of clothes to 
remove all impurities and dirt. This is necessary 
for health and cleanliness. All clothes should be 
washed at least once in two weeks; once a week 
being still more cleanly and sanitary. If clothes are 
only washed every two w r eeks, they should be put 
away with care and should be thoroughly dry. 

Sorting is the separating of clothes, before washing, 
into the divisions in which they are to be washed. 



io Laundry Manual. 

Table linen, 

Bed and body linen, 
Flannels, 

Stockings, 

Prints. 
There are several equally good methods for sorting. 
The flannels may be washed first, but no matter 
when they are washed, they must be washed alone 
and with great care. Embroideries have not been 
classified with the regular laundry, as they are 
seldom washed at the same time; and also because 
they require such care in quick drying and ironing 
while damp, that the laundress has not the time to 
care for them properly. They should be collected 
and washed when there is time to care for them. 
Removing stains, — In sorting the linen, care should be 
used to find all stains, and the garments should be 
laid aside, so that each stain may have its individual 
treatment. 

Table linen may have tea and coffee stains, 
grease spots, chocolate or fruit stains. 

Aprons and dresses may have ink or grass stains, 
and rust or grease spots. 

Sheets and clothing may have grease or rust 
spots. 

Each stain should be carefully examined and 
removed, if possible, before any washing, as the 
hot water and soap are likely to set stains. 

Clothes which are damp, and allowed to lay 
folded, are likely to mildew. This is a vegetable 
growth and hard to remove, as it attacks the fibres 
of the cloth. 



Equipment for a Home Lau?idry. n 

Water should be clear and soft for washing. If it is 
hard, when the soap is used, there will be a scum 
on the water. Hard water may be softened by 
using alkalies, as soda or ammonia; by boiling, 
and thus depositing the minerals which make it 
hard, or by a slower method of exposing to the air. 

Soaps are manufactured by mixing a fat and an alkali 
(like soda or potash). The value of the soap 
depends upon the alkalies present, and upon the 
kind of fat; many varieties have coloring matters and 
perfumes in addition. Some are kneaded like bread 
dough, therefore they contain air, and in that way 
they are made to float. It is more economical to 
buy soap in large quantities, so that it may be put 
in a moderately warm room to dry and harden. 
Other agents are generally used, either to soften the 

water, whiten the clothes, or to make the rubbing easier. 

These are agents whereby the laundress hopes to make 

laundry work less of a drudgery. 

Soda is used to soften the water. 

Alum is used to clear the water. One tablespoon of 
alum dissolved in water and added to the water 
will precipitate the mud. If added to a tub of 
soiled water, it will precipitate the dirt, so that the 
water can be used again, if water is very scarce. 
(For the sake of thorough cleanliness not advis- 
able.) 

Ammonia is used in softening the water and remov- 
ing dirt from the clothing. 

Borax is valuable in removing dirt, whitening the 
clothes, and giving gloss to them. One-half lb. 
to 10 gal. water is a good proportion when it takes 



12 Laundry Manual. 

the place of a washing powder. It is a salt, con- 
sisting of an acid and soda. Found in California in 
natural state. It is not so violent in action as soda 
but has a powerful effect in softening the water. 
It is a good cleansing agent as it does not harm 
the material or color; hence it is the safest agent 
to use for delicate fabrics or colored material. 

Kerosene is used to loosen the dirt, and may be added 
in the proportion of 3 tablespoons to 1 lb. of soap. 

Lye made from wood ashes is used for softening the 
water. 

Paranlne Wax may be used instead of kerosene or 
turpentine. 

Pearline is a substitute for borax, and, if used carefully, 
is not harmful to the hands or clothes. It has a 
very strong alkali present, and so should be used 
with care, as should all prepared washing powders. 

Turpentine will whiten the clothes. 

Blue or Indigo. — Indigo is made from a plant which 
comes from Calcutta, Egypt and Guatemala. 

Prussian Blue is a chemical compound containing 
iron. Ultramarine is insoluble in water and gives 
a tint by means of a very fine powder which enters 
the cloth. Any of the blues are used to counteract 
the yellow from the soap. Garments should be 
thoroughly shaken out before going into the blue 
water. If Prussian Blue is used, the clothes must 
be very thoroughly rinsed before putting into the 
blue water, as the alkali of the soap decomposes 
the iron compound and the result is seen in iron 
rust, and sometimes in a yellowish tint over the 
clothes. 



Equipment for a Home Laundry. 13 

Process of Washing all Clothes in General. 

Washing is a mechanical means of removing dirt. A 
clothes board is used and the clothes are rubbed so 
as to remove the dirt. If some of the clothes are 
very coarse and dirty, they may be cleaned with a 
short, small scrubbing brush. This is good for 
hand towels and overalls. The clothes are washed 
first on the right side and then are turned and 
washed on the wrong side. 

Rinsing. — After the two washings, the clothes should 
be rinsed in clear water so as to remove any loose 
dirt before putting them into the boiler. 

Boiling. — The clothes, after being rinsed, are wrung 
and soaped all over, and placed in the boiler with 
clear, cold water. A few pieces of soap may be 
thrown into the boiler for suds. After coming to 
a boil the clothes should boil briskly for five 
minutes; briskly, so as to keep the scum from set- 
tling on them. If they are not clean they may boil 
longer. Use a clothes-stick to open the clothes 
and to take them from the boiler. 

Rinsing is again necessary after boiling. The water 
should be cold and clear. Two waters for rinsing 
will whiten the clothes and will remove all soap. 
Clothes should always be rinsed well before blue- 
ing, as the soap and blue combine and cause iron 
rust. 

Blueing. — Blue water is made by adding indigo to clear, 
cold water. If lumps of indigo are used, they 
should be tied in a cloth and then rubbed in the 
water until the water is the required color. Test 



14 Laundry Manual. 

by holding in the palm of the hand, or by blueing 
a small garment. 

The clothes should be opened well before going 
into the blueing, so that they will not be streaked 
with blue. The clothes, if quite yellow, may 
remain in the blue water a little while. The water 
should be well stirred every time the clothes are 
added, as the indigo settles to the bottom. In 
making the blueing, the water should be well 
stirred each time before more blue in added. After 
blueing, the clothes are wrung and are then 
starched, or not, as is necessary, and then hung. 

Starching, — Thickness depends upon the articles to be 
starched. 

Hanging should be in the open air. The line should 
be perfectly clean and the pins clean. The line 
should not be left out to get soiled, and the pins 
should be scrubbed well when soiled. Always 
shake the garments well, hang straight, and with 
the wind. 

Folding. — When dry, the clothes should be stretched 
and folded carefully; then they will have fewer 
creases and will iron more easily. 

Sprinkling. — They are sprinkled, rolled, and allowed 
to stand an hour or so, sometimes over night, 
before ironing. If they stand some time they will 
be more evenly dampened and will iron more 
easily. Pound the rolls to distribute the moisture. 

Irons. — Irons should be of various sizes: small ones 
with points for small clothing; heavy ones for 
table and bed linen; polishing irons for cuffs 
and collars; Mrs. Potts' irons for convenience. 



Eqtcipment for a Ho??ie Laundry. 15 

Irons which are rusty should be rubbed while 
warm with yellow beeswax, and then rubbed 
quickly with a cloth. Irons are improved by 
washing frequently with soap and water, then rub- 
bing with sand soap. Rinse with boiling water 
and wipe dry. Place on the stove and when hot 
rub with beeswax. Wipe with a cloth before 
using. 



CHAPTER II. 
Stains. 

Character of Stain. Reagent. 



Tea, Boiling water, .... 

Coffee, 

Chocolate, Borax and cold water, 



Fruit, Boiling water, 

Javelle water, 



Wine, Salt and boiling water, . 

Boiling milk, 



Milk, Cold water, .... 

Cream, 

Meat juice, ....... Cold water and soap, 



Scorch, Sunlight, 



Grass, Fels Naptha Soap and water, . 

Ammonia and water, .... 

Alcohol, 

Molasses, 

Paste of soap and cooking 

soda, 
(16) 



CHAPTER II. 
Stains. 

Method of Removing. 

Spread stained part over a bowl, pour boiling water on it 
from a height so as to strike stain with force. 

Sprinkling the stain with the borax and soaking in cold 
water first, will aid the action of the boiling water. 

Use same as for coffee stains. 

Pour Javelle water in boiling water, y 2 c.-i pail of water, 

and immerse stained portion, allowing it to soak a 

few minutes, then rinse thoroughly. 

Put thick layer of salt on stain as soon as made, then 

treat with boiling water as fruit stains. 
Boiling milk used in the same way. 

Wash while fresh in cold water. 

Wash in cold water, then follow with soap. 

Hang in sun, and slight scorch will be removed. 

Wash in Fels Naptha Soap and warm water. 
Ammonia and water applied at once. 
Wash in alcohol. 

If color may be affected, use molasses or the paste; spread 
on and allow to stand for several hours. 



(17) 



18 Laundry Manual. 



Wagon grease, Lard, 

Brass, Olive oil 



Paint, Benzine, 

Turpentine, 

Wax, Absorbent paper and iron, 



Perspiration, Soap solution and sunshine, 



Machine oil, Cold water and Ivory Soap, 



Blood, Cold water, 

Soap and warm water, 
Cold raw starch, . , . 



Mucus, Ammonia, 

Soap, 

Medicine, ....... Alcohol, . 

Ink, Milk, . . . 

Oxalic acid, 



Salts of lemon, 
Javelle water, 



Stains. 19 

Rub oil on stain, then wash with warm water and soap. 

Rub with benzine or turpentine- 



Place blotting paper over spot and place a warm iron over 
it. This will soften the wax and cause it to be ab- 
sorbed by the paper. 

Place in sunshine in soap solution. 
Difficult and requires patience. 
Javelle water is also good to bleach it. 

Wash in soap and cold water. 

Soak in cold water until stain turns brown, then wash in 
warm water and soap. 

If thick goods, make a paste of raw starch and apply sev- 
eral times. 

Soak in ammonia water, then wash in cold water and 
soap. 

Soak in alcohol. 

If stain is fresh, place stained portion in milk and allow 

to stand. If milk is discolored use more. 
Wet with cold water, pour oxalic acid on the stain, let 

stand a few minutes and then rinse. When stain is 

removed, wash in ammonia water. 
If stain is dry and well set, use salts of lemon or Javelle 

water as for other stains. 



20 Laundry Manual. 

Mildew, L,emon juice and sunshine, . 

Paste: soft soap, 

i tablespoon powd. starch, 

i lemon (juice), 

salt. 



Iodine Ether, . 

Chloroform, 

Fels Naptha Soap and warm 
water. 



Indigo, Boiling water, 



Stove polish, Fels Naptha Soap and cold 

water. 



Mucus mixed with blood, . Salt and cold water, . . 



Vaseline, Turpentine, 



Stains. 2 1 

Put on lemon juice and let stand in direct sunlight. 

Cover the spot with the paste and allow to stand forty- 
eight hours. A second application may be neces- 
sary. 



Let stand in ether or chloroform until iodine is dissolved 

and disappears. 
Wash while fresh in Fels Naptha and warm water. 



Wash in boiling water. Sometimes boiling the article 
will draw out the spots of indigo formed from imper- 
fect blueing. 

If washed while fresh it is easily removed. 



Two tablespoons salt, one quart cold water. Soak for 
several hours. Double quantity of salt if articles are 
of thick material or badly stained. 

Wash a fresh vaseline stain with turpentine. Soaking 
may aid the removal. Stain cannot be removed 
after it has been boiled. 



22 Laundry Manual. 

Recipes. 

Bran Water. 
x /t cup wheat bran, i pt. cold water. 

Mix the cold water with the bran. Boil one-half hour, 
then strain and add another pint of warm water. If arti- 
cles are greasy or very dirty, add melted soap to the bran 
preparation. Wash by squeezing and shaking in water, 
as rubbing causes the color to run. Bran water will stif- 
fen articles washed in it. If stiffness is not desired, rinse 
articles in salt and water. 

Gum Water, 
i oz. best gum arabic, Y^ pt. boiling water. 

Pour the water over the gum and let stand. Stir occa- 
sionally until dissolved. Strain through fine muslin, then 
bottle. This will keep a long time and may be used ac- 
cording to the stiffness required. 

Javeu^e Water. 
4 lbs. carbonate of soda (washing soda), 
i gal. boiling water, 
i lb. chloride of lime. 

Put soda into an agate kettle, add i gal. of boiling 
water. Boil ten to fifteen minutes. Stir in the chloride 
of lime, breaking up all the lumps. A stick is best for 
stirring. When cool, pour into glass bottles. Allow to set- 
tle and cool, then it is ready for use. This forms a very 
efficient bleaching liquid for unbleached fabrics, as well 
as for cotton goods that have become yellow with dirt and 



Stains. 23 

age. They may be rendered snowy white by an applica- 
tion of this liquid. Use about 1 cup in 1 pail of hot 
water. Immerse for a few minutes in Javelle water. This 
solution will destroy the fabric if allowed to act too long. 
Rinse with several waters, and soap will have to be used 
to destroy odor. 

Detergent. 

1 ]4 oz. white castile soap, 1 oz. ether, 

1 oz. alcohol, 4 oz. ammonia. 

Cut soap fine and heat in 1 pt. of soft water until dis- 
solved. Then add 3 qts. of cold water and the other ingre- 
dients. For cleaning black goods, use 1 wine glass of 
this liquid in 1 pt. warm water. If this makes the article 
too stiff, add more water. For removing spots from 
woolen goods, as men's clothing, apply (only slightly 
diluted) with a sponge. 

Alum Water. 

2 oz. alum, 1 gal. water. 

This is used for rinsing curtains, muslin hangings and 
children's dresses, rendering them non-inflammable. 

Cold Starch. 

2 tablespoons laundry starch, 
% teaspoon borax, 
2 cups cold water. 

Dissolve the borax in a little boiling water; add the 
cold water gradually to the starch; mix well, then add 

the dissolved borax. Stir before using. 



CHAPTER III. 

Table Linen. 
Stains:— Fruit, 

Tea and coffee, 
Chocolate, 

Grease, 
Iron rust. 

Washing. — Table linen does not need so much rubbing 
because it is rarely very dirty. The clothes 
wringer should be loosened for all table linen as 
the material is soft and creases easily. 

Hanging. — Table linen should be hung out full. All 
table cloths are better hung out straight. They 
should be well stretched and hung very straight. 

Sprinkling. — Table linen should be well sprinkled and 
then, when ironed dry, the gloss will be more per- 
fect and the pattern will shine prettily. Fold evenly 
and wrap in a heavy cloth. 

Ironing. — Use heavy irons and iron both sides. Iron 
on the right side last so as to bring out the pattern. 
In ironing, the cloth or napkin should be ironed 
partly dry and then, when it is turned on the right 
side, ironed dry. Fold table cloths by folding 
selvages together. They may be folded with either 
four or three lengthwise folds. Napkins should be 
folded with selvages together. Fold all edges very 
evenly, except when folding the lengthwise folds in 
half. Here the upper half should be drawn back 
about one-half inch, otherwise, in making the last 
(24) 



Laundry Manual. 



25 




Plate No. 1. 
THE FOLDING OF TABLE) LINEN. 



Bed Linen. 27 

fold this part will be pushed out about that dis- 
tance, making the edges uneven. This applies as 
well to table cloths, sheets and handkerchiefs. 
Doylies may have the fringe brushed with a strong 
whisk broom, rather than combing which tears the 
fringe. Tray cloths should be folded in three folds 
if it is necessary to fold them. It is better to lay 
them flat, or roll around a paper roll. 

Bed Linen. 

Stains : — Vaseline, 
Medicine, 
Iron rust, 
Blood. 

Soaking. — Soak half an hour with soap in cold or 
lukewarm water. 

Washing. — Sheets should be washed on both sides 
and, in order that every part receive attention, 
they should be washed systematically from one side 
to the other. Pillow cases should be turned 
wrong side out in the washing, and then left in 
that condition until folded for ironing. In washing 
bed linen the hems require the most care. They 
should be well soaped and rubbed. 

Hanging. — Sheets may be hung out full, as a tablecloth; 
if a pole is not used, they must be folded in half 
over the line. Pillow cases are hung by the seam 
opposite the hems. If opened to the wind, they 
are liable to be torn, as there is no opening 
opposite. 

Folding. — Fold selvages of sheets together and pull 
hems until even. Turn pillow cases right side out. 



28 Laundry Manual. 

Ironing. — Care should be exercised in ironing hems. 
The sheets may be folded with the ordinary fold, 
or may be folded the same as tablecloths. (See 
chart under table linen. ) Pillow cases should be 
ironed very smooth, especially the hems. If there 
is embroidery on the cases it should be ironed first, 
and on the wrong side. Always iron the case itself 
by beginning in the corner where the side and end 
seams meet; iron from the side seam across the case. 
The cases should be folded in thirds, that is, with 
only two creases. 



Laundry Manual. 



29 




Plate No. 2. 
THE FOLDING OF NIGHT DRESSES. 



Laundry Manual. 



31 




mm* 



;^ji|.|"if^li!it[iiiij ( i|n 





«|H^||f|C|H|lJ||l 



Plate No. 3. 
THE FOLDING OF DRAWERS. 



CHAPTER IV. 
Body Linen. 

Drawers, Night dresses, 

Handkerchiefs, Corset covers, 

Aprons, Skirts. 

Stains likely to occur on body linen: 

Grease, Iron rust, 

Blood, Vaseline, 

Medicine. 

Soaking. — Soak one-half hour with soap in cold or 

lukewarm water. 
Washing. — Wash in warm water and soap. Wash 
drawers and nightdress in the first water on the 
right side, in the second water wash on the wrong- 
side. If two waters are not used, the clothes are 
turned and both sides washed in the same water. 
Soap the bottom hems, seams and bands well and 
rub thoroughly. In wringing, turn the buttons 
inside, and be sure to turn them flat so as not to 
force them off. 
Boiling. — Soap bands, seams and hems well before boil- 
ing. Boil briskly for five minutes and then rinse 
in cold water. 
Starching. — For trimming, the starch should be thinner 
than for the body of the garments. 

For trimmi?ig use: 
Yz tablespoon starch, % teaspoon lard, 
J /2 cup cold water, i teaspoon borax, 

i quart boiling water. 
3 (33) 



34 Laundry Manual. 

For body of garments use : 
i ^ tablespoons (instead ^ tablespoon) starch. The 
starch should be cooked slowly one-halt hour. 
Borax stiffens and the fat smooths it. Add a little 
blue water to the starch. Use starch very hot. 
Wring as dry as possible and rub in with the 
fingers. 

Starch: Cuffs and yoke of nightdress. 
Hems and tucks of drawers. 
All of corset cover with thin starch. 
Ruffle of skirt, or sometimes the lower half. 
Hanging. — Hang wrong side out and with the wind. 
Nightdress, by one side of lower hem. 
Skirt, by one side of lower hem. 
Drawers, by the band. 
Corset cover, by one of fronts, or thrown 
over the line and pinned by middle 
seam. 
Sprinkling. — Sprinkle the body of the underclothes 
well, but not too heavily. Rub the lace and trim- 
ming between the fingers, which have been dipped 
in water. Both hems and trimming should be well 
sprinkled; the hems, because they are thick and the 
trimming, because it is thin and likely to dry 
quickly. 
Folding. — Lay trimming all inside and fold in the hems 
before folding the garment. Roll smoothly and 
tightly. 
Ironing. — Iron embroidery on flannel and on wrong 
side. Iron all garments quickly, ironing as large 
a space at one time as is possible. Iron buttons on 



Laundry Manual. 



35 






Plate No. 4.. 
THE FOLDING OF CORSET COVERS. 



Laundry Manual. 



37 






i 

Plate No. 5. 
THE FOLDING OF CHEMISES. 



Body Linen. 39 

the wrong side. If clothes are too dry, use a cloth 
for dampening. 

In ironing nightdress, iron the embroidery and 
tucks on the sleeve first. Then iron the yoke, the 
body of the nightdress, and then fold. Run the 
iron well into the gathers. 

In ironing drawers, iron the trimming, tucks, 
and then the body and the band. 

Corset covers should be ironed with smaller iron , 
and between the seams. 

In ironing skirt, the ruffle is ironed first, and 
then may be laid back without wrinkling while 
the hem of the skirt is ironed. Then iron the body. 
Do not fold the skirt at once but hang to dry, as 
the folds are usually damp. 

Handkerchiefs are ironed the same as napkins. 
Note. — Do not use alkaline substances, as soapine, pear- 
line, washing soda, for diapers, as they remain in 
the fabric after drying, and irritate. Ammonia 
may be used as it is volatile and so will leave the 
fabric. 



CHAPTER V. 

Flannels. 

Washing, — Four short rules may be observed in wash- 
ing flannels: 

Wash one piece at a time. 
Do not soak, boil or rub. 
Do not wash in dirty water. 
Wash in waters of same temperature. 
Flannels should be washed either first or last so 
that they may have the attention they require. 
They should be passed quickly from one water to 
another, until ready for the line. 

Wash in lukewarm water to which melted soap 
has been added — one-fourth pound of soap in one 
quart of water. This is necessary as soap should 
not be rubbed on flannel. Wash up and down in 
the water without rubbing, if possible. It is a mis- 
taken idea to wear flannels as long as possible, 
thinking they will shrink when first washed. If 
this idea is followed, the flannels become so soiled 
that rubbing is necessary. Any mechanical treat- 
ment, as rubbing or wringing, causes the fibres of 
which flannels are made to shorten; hence the gar- 
ment shrinks. 

If very soiled, use i tablespoon ammonia to 2 
gallons of water. 

In many cases, better results may be obtained 
by using a second suds. 
Rinsing. — Rinse in two or three waters, all of the same 
temperature as the first wash water. 
(40) 



Flannels. 41 

Hanging, — Blue and squeeze as dry as possible. Shake 
well, pull in shape and hang to dry in a moder- 
ately warm place. Flannels often shrink from 
being hung too near a fire and dried quickly. 

Hang wrong side out and when nearly dry, 
turn. 

Blankets may be stretched in curtain stretchers 
to dry, instead of being hung. 

Stockings or socks may be dried on wooden forms. 
This is frequently done for children's socks. 

Knitted shawls or squares of fla7inel should be 
dried on a sheet placed on the floor. Unless held 
by stretchers, all flannels should be pulled and 
stretched into shape while drying. 
Ironing, — Underwear and stockings are pressed off after 
drying. 

Flannel shirts, shirt waists, skirts and blankets, 
not dried in stretchers, may be ironed by laying a 
slightly dampened cheese cloth over the flannel and 
pressing with a moderately hot iron. In remov- 
ing the cheese cloth, the fibres will be drawn up 
giving the flannel the fluffy appearance of new ma- 
terial. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Shirts, Shirt Waists, Collars and Cuffs. 

Stains: — Rust, 

Grease, 
Ink, 
Fruit. 
Washing. — In washing, care should be used as the 
color may fade. It is well to guard against this 
by using salt and water, i tablespoon to i quart of 
water, or vinegar and water. Sometimes one, and 
sometimes the other is better. If it seems faded 
before putting it into water, rinse in vinegar and 
water. 
Rinsing. — Rinse quickly in clear water; then in vinegar, 

or salt and water. 
Boiling. — Do not boil colored clothes. 
Starching. — The whole shirt waist may be starched with 
starch made as follows: 

3 tablespoons starch, 
Y /z cup cold water, 
y?, teaspoon borax, 
i qt. boiling water. 
Cook one-half hour. 
Use one-half at first, and, as it thins and cools, 
use the rest. 

For black waists, the starch may be darkened 
with one-half cup of coffee solution reducing the 
boiling water that much. 

Blue waists may have blue water added to the 
starch before starching. 
(42) 



Skirts, Shirt Waists, Collars and Cuffs. 43 

Do not add blue water to the starch for pink, 
green or lavender shirt waists. If desired, the 
starch may be colored with corresponding dye. 

Drying. — Hang by the neck band so that it will dry 
well; if of delicate colors, hang out of the sun. 

Starching, — Shirt bosoms, cuffs, collars and front plaits 
of shirt waists may now be starched according to 
the laundry method. Use Jive tablespoons of starch 
for this instead of three as used for the body. 

A cloth should be stretched on the table and 
tacked to keep it smooth and tight. The starch 
will be like a jelly and should be rubbed in with 
the fingers. The rubbing is not complete until 
the various thicknesses of material are as one. 
Then the starch must be wiped from both sides by 
a damp cloth. In finishing the rubbing, see that 
the goods are free from wrinkles and, if striped, 
that the stripes are perfectly straight. 

Sprinkling. — After drying the second time, the shirt or 
shirt waist may be sprinkled. Dampen the bosom 
of the shirt, the cuffs, the front plait and the collar 
(if attached) by rubbing on both sides with a damp 
cloth. Sprinkle the rest of the waist or shirt evenly 
and then roll, folding the heavily starched parts in 
a damp cloth. 

Collars and cuffs are dampened the same as 
those attached to shirt waists and rolled in a damp 
cloth. 

Ironing. — Shirts. First iron the bosoms on a bosom- 
board. This is a small board of about the same 
width as the shirt bosom, consequently the bosom 
may be ironed without the body of the shirt 



44 Laundry Manual. 

interfering. A board of the same shape may be 
fastened permanently to the end of a laundry table. 
It should be covered, as any ironing-board, with 
flannel and muslin, but not made too soft. 

After the bosom is ironed, remove the board; 
iron the neck-band and wrist-bands, then the 
sleeves and the body of the shirt. 

Shirt waists. — Iron the cuffs and collars (if 
attached) by first partially drying each side with a 
plain, heavy iron, and then rubbing with a polish- 
ing iron until thoroughly dry. If the starching 
has been carefully done, there will be little or no 
trouble with wrinkles, as they will have been 
stroked out. Next iron yoke, then front plait and 
the rest of the waist. Iron as quickly as possible, 
so that the waist will not need a second dampen- 
ing. If made of embroidered material, ironing on 
the wrong side will press out the figure. 

Collars and cuffs. — Whether the collars and cuffs 
are attached or adjustable they are ironed by the 
above method. Turned-down collars should be 
ironed flat and when finished, should be rubbed 
with a damp cloth just on the folding line. This 
will soften the fold so that the turning may be 
accomplished without blistering or cracking. 

Collars and cuffs are rolled in the last stage of 
their ironing. This is accomplished by passing the 
iron over the wrong side, at the same time curving 
the collar or cuff over after the iron. The iron 
should be started at the extreme end of the collar 
or cuff. This should be repeated two or three 
times from each end. Turned-down collars are 
rolled after being folded. 



Laundry Manual. 



45 




Plate No. 6. 
THE FOLDING OF SHIRTS. 



Shirts, Shirt Waists, Collars and Cuffs. 47 

For a dull finish, collars and cuffs and shirt 
bosoms, after they are ironed, may be carefully 
rubbed with a slightly moistened cheese cloth. 
Note, — The method of starching and ironing, given in 
this chapter, is the same as used in laundries. It 
requires the extra time for the drying, but will 
give stiffer cuffs and collars than if done in the 
ordinary home method. 

If the home method is preferred, starch the 
whole waist at first and give the cuffs extra rub- 
bing. When the waist is dry, starch the cuffs 
with cold starch; roll them in a damp cloth, and 
lay inside the sprinkled waist. In this method 
more care is necessary in ironing the cuffs and 
collar, as there is not such an opportunity to stroke 
out the wrinkles. 



CHAPTER VII. 
Colored Clothes. 

Stains. — Stains in colored clothes must be removed with 
great care, as the reagents themselves are likely to 
leave a stain. Often the original stain is less 
noticeable than that produced b}^ the chemical used 
to remove it. 

Washing. — Colored clothes must not be soaked. They 
may be rinsed in water containing salt or vinegar. 
This may set the color before the washing. Wash 
as quickly as possible in clear water, with little 
soap. Very hot water will dull the color. 

Salt, vinegar or alum may be added to the rins- 
ing waters (there should be two) to brighten the 
colors. 

Starching. — For dark goods, the starch should be col- 
ored as for shirt waists. The starch will show less 
if the garment is wrong side out when starched. If 
desired very stiff, starch after they are dry, as in 
the case with the shirt waists. 

Hanging. — Hang in the shade and dry quickly. 

Sprinkling. — Do not sprinkle until a short time before 
ironing, being careful to wrap each piece separately 
while damp. 

Stockings. 

Washing. — Stockings are first washed on the right side 
and then turned and washed on the wrong side. 
The feet should have special care. Rinse in clear 
water, as the rinse water used for other clothes 

(48) 



Stockings, 49 

contains lint, which will cling to the stockings. 

New stockings should be rinsed in salt water to set 

the color. Stockings, as well as colored clothes, 

are not boiled. 
Hanging. — Stockings are rinsed, blued and hung wrong 

side out. They should be pulled into shape when 

hung and pinned to the line by the top. 
Ironing. — Stockings are not sprinkled, but are ironed 

on the right side. 

Silk stockings are washed in same manner as 

silks, pages 53, 54. 

Woolen stockings same as flannels, page 40. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Embroideries. 

Washing. — Make a' suds of Ivory Soap and warm 
water. Wash the embroidery up and down in the 
suds, without rubbing, until clean. Rinse thor- 
oughly as soap will make them yellow. Do not 
allow to stand in water. If several pieces are to be 
washed, wash one at a time and hang out straight, 
so that the colors will not touch each other. By the 
time the last piece is washed, the first one may be 
ironed. They may be ironed at once if preferred, 
as they should not be sprinkled, rolled, or folded. 
Do not blue or boil. 
Ironing. — In ironing, lay several thicknesses of flannel 
on the table or board; over this place a clean, soft 
cloth. Iron on the wrong side until dry. If a 
large piece and much plain linen, turn and iron 
lightly on the right side, where there is no em- 
broidery, to give a gloss to the linen. If a circu- 
lar piece, iron straight across the grain of the 
goods, instead of around the embroidery and then 
in the center. This will prevent the center from 
puffing up. Always have the goods perfectly 
straight and iron with the grain. If inclined to 
pucker, have some one hold it and iron straight 
across, holding the iron until the cloth is dry. Do 
not fold but lay away flat or roll on a heavy roll of 
paper. 

(50) 



Laces. 5 1 



Laces, 



Washing. — Baste the lace, first, on strips of cheese 
cloth, being careful to baste all points down. Then 
put the lace into warm soapy water and let stand 
for some time. After standing, wring out and put 
into fresh, soapy water. Squeeze, shake out, and 
squeeze again, taking care to work gently as the 
threads are very tender. Do this until the lace is 
perfectly clean. Rinse in clear water. If yellow, 
lace may be bleached by laying in sun or by soak- 
ing for a few minutes in Javelle water. A final 
rinsing in borax water (4 teaspoons — 1 pint) will 
give a slight stiffness like new lace. Gum arabic 
may be used in place of borax. 

Clear Starching. — I^aces may be clear starched and in 
that way given a little of a new appearance. The 
thinner the material, the less likely to hold starch. 

Clear Starch. 

1 teaspoon starch, 

% cup cold water, 

1 quart boiling water. 
Cook % hour, strain, and use hot. 
Rub the lace into the starch solution and squeeze 
very dry. Then clap in the hands until almost 
dry. Clap by putting one end of the lace between 
the middle and forefinger of one hand, holding the 
other end in like manner with the other hand. 
Clapping scatters the starch through the meshes of 
the lace or fine muslin. Do not let the lace dry 
before ironing. 



52 Lawidry Manual. 

Ironing. — If ironed, lace should be laid on a piece of 
flannel covered with a soft cloth. Iron on the 
wrong side, being careful to iron out all the points. • 

A much better way, however, is to fasten the 
lace to a pillow or stretched sheet, by pinning every 
point down. No pins should be inserted in any 
other places besides the points, as the scallop will 
be out of shape and irregular. 

Lace handkerchiefs should be washed and partly 
dried, then put in the hot starch and wrung out, 
then clapped and ironed. 

Renaissa?ice lace may be ironed by placing over 
it a piece of muslin which has been wrung out 
in cold starch; over this lay a dry cloth. Iron 
slightly with a hot iron; remove the starched mus- 
lin and complete the ironing by using the top cloth. 

Lace curtains are not ironed, but are stretched 
in curtain stretchers and dried. Here great care 
.should be used in pinning the points. If curtain 
stretchers cannot be procured, the curtains may be 
pinned to the carpet which has been covered with 
a tightly stretched sheet. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Cleansing. 

Before putting garments away for the summer, see that 
all the soiled spots are removed. This is necessary to 
prevent moths. 

Washing Woolen.— In washing black or colored 
woolen goods, it is better to first rip the garments 
and then remove the linings. Take out all the 
threads, shake and brush well. Wash in soap 
bark or detergent. Do not allow to become dry, 
but iron while quite damp. Iron on the wrong 
side until perfectly dry. If only one or two spots, 
cleanse with detergent or any good cleansing solu- 
tion. In using cleansing solutions, it is well to 
test a small piece of the material first, as some- 
times the colors will change by the ether which is 
present. Clear water and a little white soap is 
often all that is needed. 
ZJndyed Silks may be soaked for a few hours in 
cold water. Squeeze or lightly rub in soaking 
water. Wash in soap lather. A little dissolved 
borax may be added to the wash water if the silk 
is much soiled or greasy. Wash by squeezing 
more than rubbing, unless the soil is very obsti- 
nate. If pure white, let the last rinsing be slightly 
blued, but not for cream white. In last rinsing 
water, whether blue or clear, put into every pint of 
water one teaspoon prepared gum arabic, which will 
give a slight firmness. Wrap the silk in soft cloth 
(53) 



54 Laundry Manual. 

and press very dry with the hands. Leave it 
rolled until ready for ironing. It requires no 
drying. 

Ironing. — For ironing, lay the silk on the table right 
side up and very smooth. Cover with a thin, 
smooth cloth. Run the iron lightly over it at first, 
then iron until dry. Colored silks and stockings 
must be done in the same way, but without soak- 
ing or being laid aside while dampened. They 
should be finished off quickfy . A little vinegar in 
the last rinsing water will help brighten and set 
the color. All silks, except the stockings, will 
have a better appearance if a little gum is added 
to the last water. For large articles a little boiled 
starch, much diluted, may be used and will be 
cheaper. 

Hangings of any kind, which are full of dust, should be 
gently but thoroughly shaken before being wet. 
If dust is not removed, it becomes a kind of mud, 
which, when wet, is not only difficult to remove, 
but discolors the fabric permanently. 



CHAPTER X. 

Outline of Laundry Course. 

This outline is given as an aid to instructors. It is 
used by the authors in instructing their classes in laun- 
dry work. The classes average eight students. Two 
and a half hours are required for each of these lessons. 

Lesson I. 

General notes to be given. 

Lesson II 

Wash. 

Table Linen. 

1 table cloth for every four students, 
i dinner napkin for each student, 
i doylie for each student. 

Lesson III 

Wash. 

Bed L,inen. 

i sheet for every four students, 
i pillow case for each student. 
Iron. 

Table cloth, napkins and doylies. 

Lesson IV. 

Wash. 

i night dress for every two students, 
i pair of drawers for each student. 
Iron. 

Sheets and pillow cases. 
(55) 



56 Laundry Manual. 

Lesson V. 

Wash. 

Body Linen. 

i short, white skirt for every stu- 

dent, or 
i long skirt for every two students, 
i corset cover for each student. 



Iron. 



Lesson VI. 

Wash. 



Iron. 



Lesson VII. 

Wash. 

Starch. 



Lesson VIII. 

Iron. 



Lesson IX. 

Wash. 



Body Linen from Lesson IV. 



i Shirt waist for two students, 
i Collar and one pair of cuffs for 
each student. 

Skirts and corset covers. 



Stockings. 

Shirt waist, collars and cuffs. 



Shirt waist. 
Collars and cuffs. 



Flannels. 

i piece for each student. 



Outline of Laundry Course. 57 

Wash. 

Colored clothes. 

i piece for each student. 
Iron. 

Stockings. 

Lesson X. 

Iron. 

Flannels. 
Iron. 

Colored clothes. 

Wesson XL 

Wash. 

Handkerchiefs, embroideries. 

Laces. 

Clear starching. 
Iron. 

Embroideries. 

Handkerchiefs. 

Lesson XII. 

Clean and wash black or woolen goods. 

Wash. 

i piece of woolen goods for each student. 

Wash and clear starch sash curtains. 
j4 curtain for each student. 
Iron. 

Goods and curtain. 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Alum ii 

water 23 

Ammonia n 

Aprons 33 

Bed linen 27 

Blankets 40. 41 

Bleaching 22 

Blue 12 

Blueing 13 

Body linen 33 

Boiling 13, 33. 42 

Borax n 

Bran water receipe .... 22 

Cleansing 53 

Collars 43 

Colored goods ...... 48 

Corset covers 34 

Cuffs 43 

Detergent 53 

recipe 23 

Diapers 39 

Doylies 27 

Drawers 33. 34, 39 

Embroideries . . . .33, 34, 5° 

Flannels 4°, 4 1 

Folding 14 

chemises (PI. 5) . . . 37 
corset covers (PI. 4) . 35 
drawers (PI. 3) ... 3 1 
handkerchiefs .... 27 

napkins 24 

nightdressess (PI. 2) . 29 
pillow cases . . . . 27, 28 

sheets 27 

shirts (PI. 6) 45 

shirt waists 43 

skirts 34, 39 

table linen (PI. 1) . . 25 
Gum water recipe .... 22 



Hanging 14 

corset covers 34 

drawers 34 

napkins 24 

nightdresses 34 

pillow cases 27 

sheets 27 

shirt waists 43 

skirts 34 

stockings 49 

tablecloths 24 

Handkerchiefs 39, 5 2 

Irons x 4 

kinds of 14 

care of 15 

Ironing. 

collars 44 

corset covers 39 

cuffs 44 

drawers 39 

embroideries . . . . 34, 5° 

flannels 41 

handkerchiefs .... 39 

laces 5 2 

napkins 24 

nightdresses 39 

pillow cases 28 

sheets 28 

shirts 43 

shirt waists 44 

silks 54 

skirts 39 

tablecloths 24 

Javelle water 5 1 

recipe 22 

Kerosene 12 

Laces 5 L 

Lace curtains 5 2 

Laundry rules 9 



(59) 



6o 



Index. 



PAGE 

Laundry. 

equipment of 7 

outline of ..... , 8 

Lye 12 

Napkins 24 

Nightdress 33, 34, 39 

Outline for teachers .... 55 

of laundry 8 

Paraffine 12 

Pearline 12 

Pillow cases 27, 28 

Recipes 22 

Alum water 23 

Bran water 22 

Detergent 23 

Gum water . . . . 22 
Javelle water .... 22 
Starch. 

boiled 33 

clear 51 

cold 23 

Rinsing 13 

colored clothes . . .42, 48 

flannels 40 

silks 53 

Sheets 27, 28 

Shirts 42, 43 

Shirt waists 42-47 

Silks 53, 54 

Skirts 33, 34, 39 

Soaking 27, 33 

Soap 11 

Soda 11 

Sprinkling 14 

collars 43 

cuffs 43 

muslin embroideries . 34 

table linen 24 

Stains 16-21 

Starching 14 

aprons , . 33 



PAGE 

Starching. 

collars 43 

corset covers 34 

cuffs 43 

drawers 34 

laces 51 

nightdresses 34 

shirts 43 

shirt waists ... 42, 43 

skirts 34 

Stockings 48, 49 

Stretching 14 

lace curtains 52 

Table linen 24 

Table cloths ...... 24 

Tray cloths 27 

Turpentine 12 

Washing 13 

colored embroideries . 50 

corset covers 33 

diapers 39 

doylies 24 

drawers 33 

flannels 40 

laces 51 

napkins 24 

nightdresses 33 

pillow cases 27 

sheets 27 

shirts 42 

shirt waists 42 

silks 53 

skirts 33 

stockings 48 

table cloths 24 

tray cloths 24 

woolen goods .... 53 

Washing powder 12 

Pearline 12 

Water 11 

Woolen goods 53 



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